Sunday, October 17, 2010

The Challenges of Attempting to do Science in South America

I have been in Peru since the end of June and this country never ceases to amaze me: the people are extremely helpful, friendly and giving, the scenery is breathtaking, the food is a gastronomic delight, and overall, living here has been a super-fantastic experience in almost every way. Its been great to get out on my "own" and pick up my professional and personal life and move it all to Peru for 6 months. But attempting to do science here has been a constant struggle.....

I thought I should document some of the struggle - I'm sure my boss will have a hard time understanding why it is so difficult to make progress here, and my colleagues from back home might find it interesting to hear about the daily things Peruvians overcome just to TRY to acquire scientific data here. So here goes!

Supplies: UGH. I mailed 8 boxes of supplies from the US. We used a shipping system through the US Navy who have a base here in Lima. It was supposed to be easier and more reliable, and honestly I expected it to be quick-ish. Well, one box made it after a month....but the other 7 boxes did not make it to my lab for another 4 months. Apparently they were being held "hostage" until everyone was sure who/what/where/when/why I would be doing. Bureaucracy, its fun. While they were being held, I returned to America and smuggled in replacement supplies since for a long time I had no idea if I would ever get my original materials, but lo and behold, a week after returning to Lima with suitcases full of tubes and pipette tips, my boxes were released and now I have tons of scientific supplies in my room at home because there is NO room in my lab. Yes, there are boxes of tubes, plates, and tips all over my bedroom.

It is either expensive, difficult, or impossible to get many things here. Some plastics are easy-ish (plates, tips, tubes), but we had a 3 month fiasco trying to order sterile media filters. And one item like that can bring a project to a screeching halt - we couldn't filter our powdered media or PBS (and you can't get the liquid) so we couldn't start our experiments on time.

Other things, like fetal bovine serum are AMAZINGLY expensive, even by American standards. They pay up to 3 times the US price. An antibodies and other "hazardous" products are expensive AND require special shipping permissions, making it nearly impossible to acquire them at all.


IRBs: My experience with ethics committees and IRBs was relatively tame, but so many people have HUGE issues getting their studies approved. Mine was already in the process of being approved at UCSD and here in Peru before I left the states, but it still took almost a month and a half after I got here to have it all rubber stamped and fully ok'd. But there are researchers here trying to set up studies from scratch in 3 or 4 hospitals that go thorough 6 month long struggles attempting to get studies approved before the can even BEGIN to start.


Space: If you take into consideration the average lab, like mine, we have about 5ish feet per person of personal lab bench space. The lab I work in here is much different! For each 5 feet of lab space there are about 3-4 people sharing a bench. That means you are constantly bumping people, asking to share equipment, and are generally elbow-to-elbow with someone the ENTIRE work day. No jamming alone to tunes on your iPod, no quiet time pipetting, just constant chatter and people in your professional and personal space bubble all day long. I usually love it, but some days you just need to get things done quickly and with concentration, and that is difficult here!

Coming in on the weekends: A pretty difficult thing to accomplish. Saturdays are do-able, you are able to get into the lab, but Sundays are really hard. You have to get special permission in advance, get paperwork signed, and it's a big deal. While this might seem nice overall, it makes doing science tricky.


Letters with stamps: Everything in Peru is documented with paperwork, and everyone that fills out said paperwork has a stamp. If you don't collect the right stamps in the right order, your stacks of papers are meaningless. This is true everywhere, from retails store to the university.

For example, if you walk into a local pharmacy, the Peruvian equivalent of a CVS or a Walgreens, you walk up to the counter and ask for what you need - all the merchandise is usually far out of reach behind the counter. Let's say you want sunscreen. If they have 10 varieties of sunscreen, you have to stand there and ask about each one, what SPF each is, how much it costs, is it waterproof, etc. Then you decide, and you get a piece of paper with the name of the product and the price. You then take the ticket to the cashier, and pay for your desired product....and you get a stamp. Once you get a stamp, you take the paper to a whole new person, who may or may not fetch you the product you intended to purchase. It takes at least 3 face-to-face, talking interactions to buy ONE product in a small store. The more products, the bigger the store, the more complicated every purchase becomes.
It is a similar process for all paperwork. Someone needs to be paid, someone has to approve everything, and you must have a rubber stamped piece of paper to prove it all. It's mind boggling!

Management: As I said before, I work with some very intelligent and amazingly nice Peruvian scientists, and it has been a privilege to be able to just barge in and use their space and attempt to do science, but it has been tough at some points die to the management style here. It's hard because the main bosses, the Principal Investigators (PIs) who's names are on the grant, are usually far away and in America. This means they show up every once in a while and get updates, but the rest of the time they manage the labs via half-English/half-Spanish e-mail exchanges and subordinates, which is a tricky thing to do. This means a lot gets lost in translation, and the rest is up to the people on the ground here.

Equipment: My main headache causer so far. I had two mini-mental breakdowns due to a refrigerator and a -80 degree freezer. The fridge had been cleaned out, but when it was plugged back in, it was plugged into an outlet with the wrong voltage (they use 220 volts down here, but also have a few 120 volt outlets to accommodate American equipment).....that meant that even though the light in the fridge lit up, the motor wasn't running. In fact, the fridge actually heated up to about 90 degrees (Fahrenheit) and $10,000 worth of my supplies (which i kinda-sorta smuggles into the country) sat in it overnight.

When I discovered it, I was heartbroken (Read: crying, mumbling incoherent Spanish at my poor labmates, etc). Not only were the supplies insanely expensive, but they were extremely difficult to get to Peru, since every refrigerated item has to be hand carried on ice on a plane by a scientist coming from America. Luckily, when we called the supplier they assured us the supplies would be alright even after heating....but who knows.

A second major and ongoing fiasco is a -80 degree (Celsius) freezer with a broken door latch. All my human blood samples that I collect from patients go into this freezer, but the latch that keeps the door securely shut is broken, and ice formed around the seal in the door. One Saturday morning I came in and discovered a huge puddle collecting under the unit and freaked out. All my samples that were supposed to strictly be kept frozen were sitting in puddles of cool water inside the freezer (along with many other people's samples). In the US, we would have it fixed or replaced immediately, but getting maintenance done here is hard, and getting a ginormous and expensive replacement freezer is next definitely impossible, especially on short notice.

I have definitely learned a lot from this experience, and I have a newfound appreciation for how spoiled I am at home doing science in a shiny new lab in the USA!

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Huanchaco

This weekend was another infamous holiday in Peru, so a few friends and I decided to hit the north of the country and head to Trujillo and Huanchaco, cities on the beach about 13 hours (by bus) north of Lima.
The hostel's pet turtle
The Crew :)
Fanny, Dan Karlin, Dan Pastorius, Josh and I grabbed tickets on a comfy overnight bus, packed our bags, and got psyched for a few days of awesome Peruvian seafood, surfing and ruins. We decided to stay in a hostel right on the beach. We had big plans to visit ruins, see the city of Trujillo, and enjoy some Peruvian culture.
Fanny being serenaded
We arrived at the beach early in the morning after a LONG bus ride up the coast of Peru. Our hostel was awesome, it was two buildings, the first with a huge courtyard full of hammocks, complete with a resident tortoise :) We dumped our bags and went to find breakfast. The town was compact and fun - tons of restaurants and bars and cute shops full of touristy jewelry.
Caballitos de totora
We decided that we wanted to take some surfing lessons in the afternoon, so we found a little shop with some enthusiastic teachers, and headed back to the hostel to get our suits.  We showed up for the lesson and were led to the "other store" where they had all the wetsuits and boards...which was clearly just a crash pad for 20-something Peruvian surf bums. But we suited up in our mismatched wetsuits, booties with holes in the toes, and huge foam boards and headed out to the waves.
Sunset


On the beach, the "instructors" gave us a brief lesson on land (paddle, jump, pray!) and before we knew it we were out in the waves. The water wasn't as freezing as it was in Lima, and we had a fun hour or so being pushed into the waves by the instructors. But our foam boards were soon waterlogged and heavy, and my girly arms got pretty tired, so we didn't last very long after our teachers floated off at the end of the allotted lesson time. But it was so warm and sunny, and the water was great, and we sat on the beach and watched the men fish and surf in their traditional reed boats (caballitos de totora or "little reed horsies" :). 
Jammin' Josh

Street food!
We watched the amazing sunset, ate some fantastic ceviche, and lounged in the hammocks of our hostel drinking the local beers. We caught wind of a "Reggae Party" happening at one of the (only) bars in town, so once it was late enough, Josh, Pastorius and I headed out to see what a Peruvian beach reggae party would be like.

We severely underestimated how late the "party" would begin, and ended up being some of the first people to show up at the bar...but we had fun and eventually the party picked up speed.

But the band was pretty bad, and Josh was complaining that he could totally outdo the guitar player - so at some point when they were taking a break between songs I gushed to the lead singer about how my friend LOVED them so much and would be so psyched if he could play a song with them :) My Spanish flattery and charm being much improved since my early days in Peru, this worked like a charm, and in no time Josh was on stage improv jamming with the band! He rocked it!
Outdoor sleeping...
We got some street food (skewers of mostly unidentifiable meat - but what you could identify, you mostly didn't want to...chicken hearts, anticuchos (beef heart), regular grilled chicken, and random other treats), and headed back to the hostel. But what we didn't realize is that there was a strict curfew and we had been locked out! But the boys came to the rescue and scaled a wall using the vines growing on it as a ladder and made it over the outer wall and into the outdoor courtyard to unlock the door.
Peruvian hairless dog (ew!)

For some reason, we then decided it would be a great idea to sleep in the hammocks in the courtyard...so we grabbed all out pillows and blankets, and "camped" in the hammocks outside our rooms :) 

I was rudely awakened by other tourists giggling at us, and upon further inspection, realized I was the only one left in the hammocks. Apparently the boys got cold and left me swinging in the breeze alone!
Chan Chan

But we had a super relaxing day and did almost nothing but eat, lounge, shop and soak up the chill Peruvian beach vibe. We were all surprisingly totally in love with the little city of Huanchaco, and were having too much fun being tourists but not looking at ruins, museums, art or anything in the guide book!


On our last day, we decided to actually visit Trujillo, the city we originally were aiming to explore. We first stopped off at Chan Chan, which is famous for being the largest adobe city in the ancient world. We paid our money, skipped the high-pressure option for a guide, and wandered through the adobe maze. It was mostly eroded, with only small sections that had been "restored" to anything resembling the intricate patterns our guidebook claimed used to cover the walls of the city.

It didn't take long before we were all slightly bored, and we eventually headed into town for dinner. We had no real goals for sightseeing, so we stuck to the main plaza and a few side streets and found an Italian restaurant.

We ate and reminisced, but eventually we had to catch our overnight bus back to Lima :(

It was a really fun long weekend, and we were all happy and relaxed after all the sunshine, surfing, shopping, ceviche and local beer!




Monday, October 11, 2010

Fun differences between the US and Peru

After traveling to the USA a few weekends ago, I thought I would write about some of the things I found interesting and some differences I noticed between America and Peru - don't get me wrong, there are a lot of differences, but some are just more striking or life impacting than others. Peru friends: let me know if you have any to add! :)



Things I can't seem to find in Lima (which I actually seem to miss):

-Bud Light
-Chocolate chips (there is one brand of chocolate "flavored" chips, and they are bad and expensive)
-Books in English that don't suck
-Peanut butter that doesn't cost $8 or suck
-Cool Whip (via Dan Pastorius)

Random American things I can get easily in Lima:
-Snickers, M&Ms
-Kraft Mac n' Cheese
-Kraft Singles
-Reddi Whip
-Lay's Potato Chips
-Miller Genuine Draft (ew)
-Boone's Farm
-Jim Beam and Jack Daniels
-Free ATMs!! I can use an International bank named ScotiaBank and get money out without a fee. 

Things that are still odd/annoying to me about South America:
-The elastic and ever-changing concept of "on time" and time in general. "I'll be there in 15 minutes" might mean: a) 15-20 minutes, b) 2 hours, or c) "I had no intention of actually showing up, but I am trying to be polite and not tell you that." (or the converse, d) you walk into a meeting 30 seconds late and everyone is already there and stares at you...its mind-boggling)

-No toilet seats on the toilets (why!?!). Just the porcelain. And usually no toilet paper. And you throw the paper in the trash can. That's right, ALL paper goes into a trash can next to the toilet....this one might scare off a few Americans.

-Blatant disregard for anything even resembling traffic laws (like lanes, passing, or right of way) BESIDES wearing your seat belt (but only in the front seat....safety first?). This lack of rules also applies to any line as well (like to get on a bus, purchase something, etc)

-Complete lack of any emission laws - so much pollution! When I come home and wash my face, the water runs black :(

-Triple carbs at every meal (rice, potatoes/fries and bread....plus juice and dessert sometimes)

-Complete lack of heating...you just wear all your layers inside, too.

-Serious cat-calling: whistles, noises, kissy faces, whispers, shouts...you name it, I've ignored it.

-Never carrying a purse with valuables: Sometimes I carry a bag with a book or other little stuff, but my money/keys/cell phone are always in my pockets.

-Sub-par showers. Usually no pressure, sometimes only lukewarm water, and sometimes you get electrocuted from the electric water heaters in the shower head.

-Hanging my laundry to dry: Thought it would grow on me, but my jeans never fit right and some of my shirts get all stretched out. Grr. However, getting laundry done for you is super cheap :)

-CENTIMOS: Ugh. 1 centimo = 1/100th of a Peruvian sol = .0035 AMERICAN CENTS = worthless!!!! They are these stupid little coins that are ONLY given out and accepted at MAJOR grocery stores. Otherwise people must use them to level out shaky tables or something, because they serve no real purpose. And they feel like they are made out of plastic.

-Napkins: Peruvians like to fold their napkins or cut them into super small pieces. For example, if they are going to place a napkin under your drink at a bar, you will get a 1-ply square that is just smaller than your glass. And all napkins are about 50% smaller and thinner than their American counterparts.

Things that are amazingly better/cheaper here:
-FRUIT!!!! Cherimoya, maracuya, grenadilla, papaya, camu camu, I could go on forever.

-Aji! Amazing condiment made of peppers...like hot sauce but SO MUCH BETTER. Ugh, I am going to miss it...it has completely converted me to a spicy-foods-at-every-meal-even-breakfast person.

-Triple carbs at every meal - its blessing and a curse, but so yummy! (rice, potatoes/fries and bread....plus juice and dessert sometimes)

-Public transit: while I have a love-hate relationship with combis (mini-buses), its nice to never have to drive anywhere and get across town for 30 cents.

-Giant beers that you buy and share with everyone at your table (and you aren't allowed to say no when a Peruvian offers you some).

-Ceviche: raw fish marinated in lime juice, spices and heaven. Nuff said.

-"Sours": like Pisco sours, or maracuya (passion fruit) sours. Drinks made with pisco, fruit, sugar and just enough egg white to put a layer of foam on top after its blended or shaken.

-Long-distance luxury bus travel: So awesome! Nothing like Greyhound, and there are so many companies to choose from! And if you do an overnight bus, you magically wake up in a new city.

Random things I just find odd:
-When constructing a building, they leave the rebar sticking out of the top floor, like they might add another level on at any moment. All the buildings have this eerie, unfinished look.

-Stray dogs, they are everywhere!!

-Greeting people: when you walk into a room, you MUST greet everyone that is in the room personally, usually with a kiss. Even at work, even your boss.

I'm sure I will be able to add to this before I'm done here, but this list was a start!

Ciao!
Kristyn